|
An imposing complex of beautiful wooden shrines and
stone pagodas built upon decorative stone terraces,
the temple stands on the western midslope of Mt. Tohamsan
overlooking fertile plains and the mythical mountain,
Namsan, beyond. The elevated compound is reached by
climing up thirty-three stone stairs adorned with elaborate
railings, named the Bridge of White Cloud and the Bridge
of Blue Cloud, which symbolize the thirty-three heavens.
The cloistered sanctuary is divided into two realms,
the land of Seokgamoni Buddha and the land of Amitabha,
the Buddha of Boundless Light. The "impure land"
of Seakgamoni Buddha is larger and higher than the "pure
land" of Amitabha. This is because Seokgamoni is
praised as the more noble for the chose to appear in
the mundane world out of his great compassion. The main
courtyard which is dedicated to Seoakgamoni, the Historic
Buddha, includes Daeungjeon, the main worship hall enshrining
a gilt-bronze buddha triad. A pair of famous pagodas,
Seokgatap, or the Seokgamoni Pagoda, and Tabotap, or
the Pagoda of Many Treasures, stand in front of the
main worship hall, A lecture hall named Musolijeon,
or the Hall of No Discourse, stands to the north of
the worship hall. The shrines of Vairocana and Avalokitesvara
stand at the back of the lecture hall.
Geungnakjeon, or the Paradise Hall, dedicated to Amitabha,
the Buddha of Western Paradise, is located to the west
of the main courtyard. From the outer terrain, the hall
is reached through a separate gate and stairs named
the Lotus Bridge and Bridge of Seven Treasures. Amitabha,
who vowed that all who believed in him and who called
upon his name would be born into his paradise, has a
broad following among Koreans. Faith alone ensures rebirth
in his paradise, so it is certainly easier than self-attainment
leading to enlightenment.
Among the many treasures of Bulguksa, the pagoda pair
in the main courtyard have an unmatched reputation.
Indeed, part of the fame of Bulguksa itself is owing
to this unique pair. The princely dignity and simplicity
of the Seokgamoni Pagoda dramatically enhances the complexity
of the Pagoda of Many Treasures that stands some 100
feet away with its lavish decorative details. The two
stone pagoda have stood in dynamic contrast for over
12 centuries surviving the flames of war that engulfed
all of the temple's original wooden structures. None
of the some thousand stone pagodas scattered across
Korea excel them for profound philosophical depth and
aesthetic charm.
The Seokgamoni Pagoda represents the finest style of
Korean Buddhist pagodas that evolved from China's multistoried
pavilion-type wooden pagodas. The three-story pagoda
is admired for its proportions and simple but graceful
style. The highly decorative Tabotap, symbolizing Prabhutaratna
Buddha, is an exceptional case that demonstrates the
wondrous skill of Unified Silla masonry. The pagoda
features what is assumed to be an enlarged version of
a luxurious sarira shrine supported by a roof-like square
slab resting on four pillars and massive brackets. The
pillars stand on an elevated platform approached by
four staircases, each with 10 steps symbolizing the
10 paramitas, or great virtues.
The arrangement of the two pagodas was inspired by the
legend that when Seokgamoni preached the Lotus Sutra,
the pagoda of Prabhutaratna emerged out of the earth
in witness of the greatness and truth of his teaching.
Meanwhile, the Seokgamoni Pagoda is also called the
"Pagoda without Reflections," denoting the
sad legend of Asanyeo, wife of the Baekje mason, Asadal,
who built the pagoda. The poor woman came to Gyeongju
to see her husband as years had passed without any news
from him. No outsiders were allowed into the site of
a holy project and she was told to wait by a pond near
the temple until the completed pagoda cast a reflection
in the water. She waited in vain and finally threw herself
into the pond.
A collection of precious treasures was found in the
Seokgamoni Pagoda during repair work in 1966. They include
a paper scroll of the Pure Light Dharani Sutra, printed
between 706 and 751. Measuring 6.2 meters in length
and 6.7 centimeters in width, the scroll is recognized
as the world's oldest printed material. The pagoda also
yielded three sets of exquisitely decorated sarira containers
including a gilt-bronze casket in elaborate openwork,
a gilt-bronze box with a fine engraving of bodhisattvas
and heavenly kings, and a glass bottle containing 46
grains of holy relics.
The Pagoda of Many Treasures was dismantled and reassembled
by the Japanese in the 1920s but no record concerning
the repair or the treasures found inside it remains.
Back in 1593 during the Hideyoshi invasions, a group
of Japanese pirates set fire to the temple upon discovering
weapons hidden in one of its shrines. All of the wooden
structures were burnt down at this time. The temple
was reconstructed over a period of 150 years beginning
in 1604 but never regained its old splendor.
The foundations of lost structures were excavated in
an intensive investigation conducted in 1969. Based
on the result of the excavation, several buildings and
cloisters were reconstructed and the stone terraces
were repaired in the early 1970s. But a lotus pond known
to have existed beneath the staircases leading up to
the main courtyard was left out of the renovations.
|